第272回：奥克兰长白云之乡，诗意国度风帆之都(下)
《皇氏古建築大全》《仙劍波斯臥龍崗》
【JUMBO HERITAGE LIST】©【JUMBO HUANG SWORD】
第272回：奥克兰长白云之乡，诗意国度风帆之都(下)
新西兰拥有数千公里的步道，而其中最负盛名的当属“九大步道”，它们连接了众多最壮观的风景，并穿行于各个标志性景点。我们计划走下“九大步道”，但事后发现我们没有提前一年预订住宿，
导致我们无法成行，只能等下次机会了。这“九大步道”分别是亚伯塔斯曼海滨步道（Abel Tasman Coast Track），希菲步道（Heaphy Track），凯普勒步道（Kepler Track），
怀卡里莫阿纳湖步道（Lake Waikaremoana），米尔福德步道（Milford Track），斯图尔特岛，拉奇乌拉步道（Rakiura Track, Stewart Island），路特本步道（Routeburn Track），汤加里罗北环行步道（Tongariro Northern Circuit），旺格努伊之旅步道(Whanganui Journey)，
具体介绍为：怀卡里莫阿纳湖：沿着全程 46 公里都位于尤瑞瓦拉国家公园（Te Urewera National Park）中的步道，深入探索神秘雨林和湿地交织的葱郁世界。
汤加里罗北区环道：这条令人惊叹的 41 公里步道将穿过汤加里罗国家公园（Tongariro National Park），环绕活火山而行，行经多个奇妙的熔岩流和火山口。第一天的行程包含了著名的“汤加里罗越山”步道。
旺格努依之旅：145 公里的旺格努依河之旅更像是一次独木舟或皮艇之行，将带你穿越偏远而崎岖的国家公园，领略迷人本土森林，邂逅丰富多彩的各种鸟类。亚伯塔斯曼海滨步道：这条 51 公里长的步道囊括了数不胜数的美丽海滩和岩石奇观，可让游客俯临恢宏的海岸风光。
希菲步道：82 公里的希菲步道将让你沿途领略繁茂的雨林、亚高山草甸、高耸崎岖的山脉以及低地森林和棕榈树环绕的冲浪海滩。凯普勒步道：这条 60 公里长的步道展现了峡湾地区的最美风情，
山脉、本土森林、冰蚀山谷和瀑布。米尔福德步道：峡湾地区的米尔福德步道堪称是新西兰最著名的步道。全长 53 公里的旅程将带你亲临纯净的湖泊、
高耸入云的山峰、雄伟的山谷和新西兰最高的瀑布群。拉奇乌拉步道：这条遗世独立的 36 公里步道将带游客探索千年来始终不变的斯图尔特岛。路特本步道：
32 公里长的步道连通了阿斯帕林山国家公园（Mount Aspiring National Park）和峡湾国家公园（Fiordland National Park），沿途景观囊括了壮丽的山峰、山谷、瀑布和湖泊。
领略新西兰自然之美，徒步是最好的选择，事后我们还是创造了很多机会走了一些没有那么知名的短途步道，也算是如愿了。晚上看书只能呆在肥猫客栈大本营的木屋，因为我们睡的房车空间狭小，而且没有电灯。今天我仔细研究了奥克兰都会区：奥克兰都会区是新西兰在北岛最大的城市，被称为“帆之都”，同时也是新西兰工业和商业中心和经济贸易中心。
全球最重要的跨国公司都在奥克兰设有办事处，奥克兰事实上也是新西兰的“经济首都”。奥克兰是新西兰对外贸易、旅游的门户，是重要的公路、铁路和航空交通枢纽。也是新西兰最大最繁忙的商业金融中心，新西兰的股票交易所及多家大银行的总部就设在这里。新西兰的首都早先设在奥克兰，但在1865年迁至北岛南端的惠灵顿。
现今的奥克兰仍然为新西兰最发达的地区之一，同时也是南太平洋的枢纽，旅客出入境的主要地点。在2015年的世界最佳居住城市评选中，奥克兰高居全球第三位，这也是连续三年奥克兰蝉联全球最适宜城市前三名。奥克兰全市超过半数的人口信奉基督教，40%的人口不信任何宗教。10%左右的居民信奉佛教、印度教、伊斯兰教和锡克教。也有少部分人信奉犹太教。
奥克兰是新西兰人口最多的居民点，它位于两大海港之间，一些死火山点缀其间。该地区有四个城市：奥克兰市、曼努考、北岸和怀塔克瑞。人们的文化背景包含玻利尼西亚、亚洲到英国和东欧的各种元素。奥克兰是新西兰的门户，美丽的海港、岛屿，玻利尼西亚文化和现代大都市，这些元素组成了奥克兰的生活方式，使之享誉世界。奥克兰有无穷的自然魅力，
无论对于经济型背包族还是豪华游艇的拥有者，奥克兰都是理想的旅游目的地。在怀特玛塔港中部，回首可望到奥克兰的城市天际。还可看到奥克兰的商务区和港口，以及从地平面拔起、高耸入云的南半球最高建筑天空塔。天空塔建于1996年，是迄今为止南半球最高的建筑，塔高328米。
比法国的爱菲尔铁塔与悉尼的AMP塔还要高。塔上有多层观景台，设有高倍望远镜可以方便游客观赏奥克兰的全景，还有多种语言的广播服务和交互式科技设备，以及视听展览。在毛利语中，奥克兰得名于 “纯洁的少女和一百个情人”。这是由于该地区有众多的部落的缘故。
奥克兰的原始居民是波利尼西亚种的毛利人，公元1350年，毛利人从波利尼西亚群岛中的库克岛上集体航海，在海上和波涛奋战了好几个星期，横渡3200公里的海洋来到这片盛产长嘴无翼鸟、长着茂密植物的美丽土地，成为奥克兰最古老的土著居民。
因为这里的土地非常肥沃，竞争对手很多，他们就必须要在火山峰顶建造“帕”（防卫性的山寨）。在欧洲人到来之前，大约有2万毛利人居住在这里。随着火器被引进新西兰的北部地区，这打破了这一地区的平衡，并导致了部落与部落间惨烈的战争。而一些缺少武器的部落不得不在这一地区寻求新的避难所，还不能在这沿海地区被其他部落发现。
结果当欧洲人到达此地并建立“新西兰”这一殖民地的时候，这一地区的毛利人非常的分散。以致毛利人并没有仔细讨论欧洲人的政策。在那段欧洲人的移民时期，由于战争和后来的大批欧洲移民，奥克兰中部区域的毛利人急速减少。
纳提瓦图瓦和泰努伊曾经是世代生活在那片区域的两个主要部落。时至今日，在奥克兰郊区附近不少火山冈丘山仍保留着早期毛利人的堡垒式遗址，例如伊甸山和独树山。
尽管早在1769年英国船长詹姆斯.库克就曾经经过这个地区，但他却没有进入到怀特玛塔港和豪拉基湾。直到1820年，撒母耳.马斯丹才发现了今日的奥克兰市中心。1840年2月6日，威廉.霍布森上尉被英国政府派到新西兰跟当地的毛利原住民签定《怀唐伊条约》后，
这块地就用六英镑被买下来，霍布森就选择奥克兰作为这新殖民地的首都。一年间，两千个英国移民就来砍伐开垦。英国政府就用50个床单、20件长裤、20个短柄小斧、10件背心、10个便帽、10个铁锅、四木桶的烟草、一箱子的烟斗、一个毛布、糖和面粉把奥克兰三千英亩的地买下来。
当欧洲人与毛利人在1840年2月签定《怀唐伊条约》（Treaty of Waitangi）不久后，新西兰的首任总督威廉.霍布森决定放弃北部地区的小镇拉塞尔为首都，在这座城市重新定都，并以印度总督奥克兰之名命名了这座城市。奥克兰因此成为了新西兰的第二任首都。奥克兰位于新西兰北岛的北方，离南岛实在路途遥远，这也引起了南岛权贵的长期抱怨。
仍在1840年，尼科尔森港（即现首都惠灵顿）对于新西兰来说作为行政首都再好不过，因为这座城市离新西兰南岛只是一座库克海峡之遥。尼科尔森港自此也迅速的发展起来。
与此同时，直到1876年新西兰废除了省这一行政系统，奥克兰仍然是新西兰的首都和奥克兰省的省会。尽管大量的移民不断地给这座城市带来更新鲜的活力，但奥克兰还是于1865年被取消了首都的地位。
为了对抗英国政府，毛利人便于1860年代发起了“毛利国王运动”（MAori King Movement），这是毛利人对土地受到日益增长的威胁所作出的反应。此后，自1845至1872年间，新西兰发生一系列白人与毛利人的冲突，这就是新西兰史上著名的“毛利战争”（也称“新西兰战争”、“土地战争”），战争因一些问题而起，最主要的是因毛利人的土地被卖给了殖民白种人群。
而这也同样波及到了奥克兰。奥克兰地区参加“毛利国王运动”的毛利人也是急剧增加，从1841年的只有1400人到1864年的12423人，而这种情况同样出现在其他受白人控制的商业城市，而这些城市主要围绕着新西兰各个海港，那里的人口激增和污染问题引起毛利人的强烈不满。到了20世纪上半叶，奥克兰开始出现了有轨电车和铁路，并且迅速地发展。
不久，随着电气时代的来临，电车开始出现并逐渐统治了这里并一直延续至今。干线路和高速公路的出现也改变了奥克兰的城市风光，更为意义深远是，这导致了城市与城市间的联合。例如北岸和南方的曼努考市与奥克兰的联合。奥克兰地区至今仍然建有大量郊区风格的房子，使得奥克兰今日的人口密度仍旧非常之低。尽管奥克兰地区的人口还不到伦敦人口的六分之一，
但奥克兰的面积却超过了1000平方公里。这也使得奥克兰比其他高密度人口城市发展公共交通变得更加困难与昂贵。奥克兰伫立在塔斯曼海与太平洋之间的细长的地峡上，两面环海，东侧是濒临太平洋的威特马塔港。处于太平洋的怀特马塔港湾和塔斯曼海上的曼努考港湾之间仅26公里的地峡上。在港湾之外，散落着如同珍珠般的零星岛屿；
港湾内，舟楫横阵，海水清澈，海港大桥连着两个港湾。大桥、港湾和沉睡在朗伊托托岛的朗伊托托火山，充满着蓄势待发的蓬勃生气。奥克兰城是沿着死火山口所构成的，它主建在七座甚至更多的火山上。丘陵地起伏延伸，坡道多而富于变化。奥克兰整个城市分为南北两部分，由奥克兰海港大桥联成一体。
大桥形如衣架，单跨度，桥长1079米，有8条平行车道，1959年建成，是新西兰唯一的港口桥。城周丘陵起伏，这里原是火山群，市内火山锥到处可见，
毛利人把它们筑成梯田，修建房舍，在战争中作为堡垒抗御敌人。死火山有几十座，不少已辟为公园。这里有公园360多个，居全国城市之首。市中心的艾伯特公园，在毛利战争中，曾是英国殖民军总部所在地，现在树木繁茂，是市民小憩的地方。著名的伊甸山公园内，山高220米，有公路可盘旋而上，
山上可鸟瞰市区、港湾风光、乡村绿野似的草地、海港外的恋基托托岛及对岸的地旺半岛尽在眼底。市区现代化的建筑和古色古香的维多利亚式建筑沿海湾相间分布，
街道整洁、宁静。在主街女皇大街上矗立着一尊手握大棒的毛利勇士铜像。格雷夫顿大街上的战争纪念馆内珍藏着毛利人的文物和艺术品，有毛利人早期航行至此的各种独木舟、农渔猎工具、作战用的刀叉等。市郊山岗上还建有毛利人的“介”字形祠堂，是毛利人祭祀祖先、集会和调解纠纷的地方。堂内两侧及房檐、屋角上都刻着毛利人祖先像，瞪眼伸舌，形象生动。奥克兰的人种相当多元，黑人和墨西哥人主要居住在奥克兰东南部，而南、西区则以毛利人和太平洋岛民为主。
奥克兰北、中、东至西区都有来自亚洲各地的华人及亚洲人居住，中囯大陆移民多居于中区，而东区以中囯香港台湾移民为多。奥克兰北岸区可算是奥克兰各方面环境最好的区域，主要以欧洲移民、新西兰白人和部分亚洲人为主，治安状况良好。奥克兰温和的气候，大量的就业和受教育的机会，众多休闲之处是每个人向往奥克兰的原因。而交通问题、没有完善的大众运输系统、住房价格的持续走高则是奥克兰的缺点，而犯罪同样是长期困扰奥克兰的严重问题。
奥克兰人很喜欢温暖、温和的气候及户外活动。其中的一种最佳活动是前往豪拉基湾中的某个岛屿，体验秀丽的风景。游客从市中心乘坐渡轮，40分钟后即可登上岛屿，尽情享受一番。奥克兰的城市生活与豪拉基湾的美景相得益彰，这里有为数众多的餐馆和酒吧、剧院、琳琅满目的艺术品与时装，以及现代化的高档宾馆和充满活力的海滨。
走在奥克兰的大街上，可以看到极富殖民地色彩的十九世纪建筑物。女王大街是奥克兰最著名的、最古老的和最繁华的街道，这条大街上豪华的电影院、时髦的时装店、高级的纪念品店……无疑是品味奥克兰的现代与古意交相辉映的最佳选择。而另一个著名的帕奈尔区，雅致的咖啡厅，细致的白色庭院，雕花的小巧阳台，弯弯曲曲的石板路，仿佛一座欧洲小城。
另外，对于奥克兰这样一个注重自然又积极保护历史文化的城市来说，各种博物馆、艺术馆都是这个自然古朴的城市中最值得驻留的地方。奥克兰是座美丽的花园城市，旅游业发达。还有供游泳和冲浪运动的海滩、高尔夫球场、体育场、公园和保护地。奥克兰城内食肆林立，各国珍馐美食，共冶一炉。在郊外只需30分钟车程，便可到达奥克兰西部约20个酿酒园，能品尝享誉国际的地道美酒。
JUMBO HUANG SWORD: We lived besides St Paul’s Anglican Church, close to the university of Auckland. Across the road located the Terraced housing built in 1897 as residential buildings and associated place houses for John Endean. I walked to Wellesley St. and passed by Albert park, then headed to Queen St, walked down to Britomart, after consulted the train schedule, I went to Tangihua St. Count Down supermarket, I paid NZD16.5 for a bag of food, including: Fantastic 5 Pack spicy thai 2 min Noodle; Biscuit Toffee Ceramel 200g, Maketu Pie Smoked fish 200g, fruit mince pie 6pk, Lasagne 350mg, Count.co.nz, I returned to the apartment, cooked the food, after checked out we headed to the bus station of 7020, and paid $14 for two tickets to Sunnyvale.
The train station was closed and we had to take bus instead. Our bus passed by Mt Albert which crowded with lots of Chinese, later we passed Avondale, New Lynn, Fruitvale Rd, Glen Eden and Sunnyvale(further station is Henderson and Sturges Rd, Swanson). After disembarked the bus, a guy from the fat cat hostel drove to the station and picked us up, he then drove from Rangeview Rd to SherryBrooke Rd, his name was Pol and he was very kind. We met with lots of foreigners in the hostels and the Germany girl gave us a tour around the area. Then we put our luggages to used fruit van. Around our hostel, there were Mclaren Park, Palm heights, Henderson valley and Henderson North, Green Bay, Wood Bay and Titirangi. Milan Cora assigned a second-hand van to us for sleep,
near the van located the ecological toilet, the user need to cover the poo by mulch. In the afternoon we walked around the town and passed by some construction site, there was a advertisement for house selling by Barfoot & Thompson Ltd which is licensed under the Real Estate Agents Act 2008, we returned to the Fat Cat Eco Community hostel and met the pretty lady from England, her name was Michelle Clarke, she was very helpful. The person in charge of recruitment was Dani whom from Holland(now replaced by Taryn), it was located in Sunnyvale, Auckland. Dani once introduced her hostel to us as below: “Availability now to help out in our ECOLOGICAL Community!!Suits warm, friendly, people who love to clean and cook, who loves to fill hungry stomachs with
some vegan deliciousness, We are an eco-friendly home for travelers. We form a community of travellers who are looking to experience an ecological way of living and the feeling to be part of a lively, friendly warm and welcoming community. We are drug, meat and alcohol FREE place. This creates a really beautiful atmosphere, where the focus on forming friendships and community, Each evening we share a delicious meal all together, our food is vegan and we like active people who have a healthy way of living; We have two types of volunteer positions. One is House Angel and the other one is Kitchen God(dess). Let us know what your preference is, for House Angel, You main task will be to help with the house cleaning, creating a tidy, cozy, warm and welcoming atmosphere for everyone. It would suit clean, friendly, positive people who love tidy places,
enjoy cleaning and are keen and happy to welcome and help other people , You will be busy 4 days per week, which means that every week you will have 3 days off to enjoy and explore the area. Kitchen God or goddess: Every evening we have a communal meal with all the people who are in the house. You'll be preparing and cooking food for all of us , You'll also make pasta, take care of our microgreens and help with the groceries. You will be busy cooking 3 to 4 days per week, as you are gonna work with another Kitchen God. The rest of the week you will have 3 days off to explore and enjoy the area. We have a minimum of 3 weeks stay and a maximum of 1 month. Nearby to our home we have lovely bush walks and hiking trails, and great beaches to explore.
We are just next to the Waitakere Ranges National Park. You will need a car, or it is very easy to hitchhike, or we do have one van which we rent to people to access these places. There is also a train line just next to the house and bicycles which you are free to use. Many people in their 3 days off, go on camping and hiking trips to other parts of New Zealand together. Where we live there are many great things to see and experience nearby. In the past people have done camping trips to the mountains just next to our place, where there are hiking trails that go for days; there is a marine national park not too far away where people have snorkelled and swam with the fish, some have even done trips to Taupo or Rotorua in their time off. It just depends what you want to do, there's plenty of options, So with your three weeks here, there is still the chance to do many trips and visit a lot of NZ in this area, Our food is vegan and the breakfast, lunch and dinner meals are included each day you will stay with us. Accommodation is in tents, our wwoofer house or vans in our beautiful garden,
We supply the tents and have set them up very nicely, We also supply the beds and blankets, but if you have your own you are welcome to put it up, We prefer people over 25 years of life experience or people who have been living on their own for a few years.” We slept in the old van, besides us is another van occupied by Michelle Clarke. She was very nice and helpful, after she left the community, she wrote some comments as below: Helper: Michelle Clarke, From: United Kingdom: “When I first applied to stay here, the information was a little out of date as there is very little growing food, for example, but the information is really accurate now. I had a great time. Being near Auckland (40mins) on the train line is useful for reaching the city although I never really went there. I hitched to the nearby Hillary track which is a great walking track.
The people are really friendly although lack of longer term leadership is a little frustrating at times and there could be far more ecologically friendly adaptions to the place but it's relatively good. A lot of people start their trip in NZ there which is handy for getting your bank account etc sorted, and people are buying and selling cars. It seems not very eco that people are very focused on travelling in cars around NZ but it's a handy place to find your way... Booking buses etc. Local library with lots of free internet. It took a while for me to settle at Fat Cat but after a bit, I felt really at home, I enjoyed the work, loved the people and had a good start to my trip in NZ. The average age of people there is under 30. Thankyou fat cat!” I agreed with Michelle Clarke as she was simple and straightforward, she told the truth about this hostel.
Auckland is a city in the North Island of New Zealand. With an urban population of 1,495,000, Auckland is the most populous urban area in the country. It is part of the wider Auckland Region, the area governed by the Auckland Council which also includes outlying rural areas and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf, resulting in a total population of 1,614,300. A diverse and multicultural city, Auckland is home to the largest Polynesian population in the world. The MAori name for Auckland, means "TAmaki with a hundred lovers", in reference to the desirability of its fertile land at the hub of waterways in all directions. It has also been called Akarana,
the MAori pronunciation of the English name. The Auckland urban area ranges to Waiwera in the north, Kumeu in the northwest, and Runciman in the south. It is not contiguous; the section from Waiwera to WhangaparAoa Peninsula is separate from its nearest neighbouring suburb of Long Bay. Auckland lies between the Hauraki Gulf of the Pacific Ocean to the east, the low Hunua Ranges to the south-east, the Manukau Harbour to the south-west, and the Waitakere Ranges and smaller ranges to the west and north-west. The surrounding hills are covered in rainforest and the landscape is dotted with dozens of dormant volcanic cones. The central part of the urban area occupies a narrow isthmus between the Manukau Harbour on the Tasman Sea and the Waitemata Harbour on the Pacific Ocean. It is one of the few cities in the world to have harbours on two separate major bodies of water.
The isthmus on which Auckland resides was first settled around 1350 and was valued for its rich and fertile land. MAori population in the area is estimated to have peaked at 20,000 before the arrival of Europeans. After a British colony was established in 1840, the new Governor of New Zealand, William Hobson, chose the area as his new capital. He named the area "Auckland" for George Eden, Earl of Auckland, British First Lord of the Admiralty. It was replaced as the capital in 1865, but immigration to the new city stayed strong and it has remained the country's most populous urban area. Today, Auckland's Central Business District is the major financial centre of New Zealand.
Auckland is classified as a Beta World City because of its importance in finance, commerce, media, entertainment, arts, education and tourism. Auckland's landmarks such as the Auckland Art Gallery Toi o TAmaki, the Harbour Bridge, the Sky Tower, and many museums, parks, restaurants and theatres are significant tourist attractions. Auckland is frequently ranked among the world's most liveable cities: the 2016 Mercer Quality of Living Survey ranked Auckland 3rd place in the world on its list, while the Economist Intelligence Unit's Global Liveability Ranking placed Auckland in 8th place…
第273回：廉价劳动重新洗牌，阴阳失调形同陌路
