二月旅行剪影

芬兰·海门林纳·冰与火之歌

在海门林纳一间小酒吧看了一场芬兰重金属乐队的live，乐队名翻译成中文是乌合之众，印象最深曲目叫做burning cold，非常贴切地诠释了芬兰人的冰火性格（感觉芬兰人都是水瓶座hhh）。现场最嗨的当属坐在舞台下方的两个轮椅客，一男一女，真是能动的地方都动起来了，据同行的资深metalhead说，芬兰的摇滚现场都会给残疾人预留最靠前的空间，但她也没见过像这次这俩人这么激情澎湃的，挥着拳头甩着头，跟主唱频频互动，要是能站起来估计就要上舞台跳水了。要说我被他们感动了都觉得是一种媚俗与亵渎，更准确说应该是自愧不如。想想自己，就来了个大姨妈，摇晃了两首歌的时间就后排沙发葛优瘫去了。另外，第一次见识到了喝醉后的芬兰人，还连续碰见三个，个个都健谈到把我吓出社恐，第一个也是跟朋友来的非金属党，遇到我感觉碰见了同病相怜之人，不停吐槽这音乐太吵，最后实在受不了走了。第二个是他朋友，演出结束后过来质问我为啥一直坐在沙发上低头扣手机，吓呆我以为自己冒犯了乐迷，赶紧说 “I‘m not feeling very well today."。最后一个醉地尤其厉害，我也不知道他在说啥，不过他知道自己醉的不行了，还保持着最后一丝理性说：“Don't take me as all finnish people. I'm bad, others are not. I'm sorry. If me want me to leave, anytime, I will leave."

"You can stay. We are leaving anyway."

爱沙尼亚·塔林·occupation and freedom

塔林VABAMU博物馆讲解机上的几段话，写得太好了，让我咂摸了老半天，摘抄如下：

I'm going to tell you about that part of Estonian history that was filled with terror, murders and deportations, but this building is not about hatred, fear or revenge. At the opening of htis museum, Estonia's former President Lennart Meri said: "This is our house of freedom (and it should remind us of one thing only- of the frail and fragile line that seperates freedom and the opponents of freedom."

Besides counting his days in exile, Viktor also recorded other things in his notebook. Just like a free person would, he wrote down the names of his relatives, prices of products, names of undertakings, etc. Record keeping was one way to creat some order in chaos.

People felt that although there was no freedom, there was equality and brotherhood- and there was more of these two than in today's liberal societies. Was that really so? Or was this self-deception? Does solidarity grow in a society that isn't free? Do we have to be less free in order to be more connected? Or is that just idealising one's youth? What kind of era was this Soviet era? Was it just more fair and pure compared to today, did people stick together more? Or was it more frightening, hazardous, strangling? Were people presented with the choice: freddom or brotherhood? Was there such a choice at all? Could anyone actually choose betwen only two options? Was there only black and white, plus and minus?

It is not forbidden to display the red star in Estonia, even though it is a symbol of Soviet terror. Why? Because symbols are customarily not forbidden in a free society.

This was Estonia in 1989. Suddenly, it was possible to reach for freedom but what was freedom? Whose freedom was it? Who are you? Are you participating or not? And if you are, then what are you participating in if nothing has been defined yet and it is only your actions that can creat, construct and build something? You face the obligation to carry on, but no guidance. Even the far end of the road is only barely discernible. What do you choose? Because you must choose, because not deciding is also a decision- and not a single one of your choices is utterly right or wrong. That's what freedom is all about.

芬兰·罗瓦涅米·The Real Santa Claus

去之前我一直说不想去，因为本宝宝压根就没信过圣诞老人。她们先是以看极光为由把我哄到了罗瓦涅米，又以”来都来了“为由一起跟圣诞老人拍了合照（32欧一张！你咋不去抢！）。不过后来我觉得这钱也不多，毕竟cos圣诞老人真是个致郁的活儿，还好又厚又长的白胡子盖住了他的下半张脸，不然光是笑都要累死。拍完他用地道的中文跟我们说 “中国见”，我不知道咋回事儿突发奇想居然主动向他索抱，搞得她们一个个也要抱（受累了圣诞老爷爷），而且取了照片一看我竟然是笑得最开心的那个。我一想，觉得自己真是个抠门儿，一定是潜意识里为了花出去的钱物有所值才这么着。照片上的圣诞老人眼里没有一点笑意，分外严肃。不知道为啥想起之前在坦佩雷电影节看的一部短片“The Real Snowwhite" （讲述一个cos成白雪公主的芬兰姑娘在迪士尼乐园大门口被拒绝入内，因为她太像了，游客们纷纷跟她合影要签名，工作人员说里面的才是真正的白雪公主），就觉得圣诞老人估计是世界上最不相信“圣诞老人”的人。