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布鲁塞尔.记

JOAN 2019-07-13 17:45:57

七月好，大嘎吼不吼。

这几天上海一直下雨，心情也跟着潮湿起来，这天气很适合看看我文末的视频，听着小曲。

比利时很可爱，丁丁历险记和蓝精灵的地方。

尤其是比利时设计师The Antwerp Six一个个都是我的爱。没有巴黎这般的精致，没有米兰这边的喧哗，比利时的设计师前卫先锋，也带一些些哥特的气质，那是很美的组合。

52岁的Ann Demeulemeester和68岁的Patti Smith（此处只有迷恋的眼神）

那个年代，正值时尚浪潮受到种种怪异理念和奇思异想的剧烈冲击，传统的时装概念被一群日本先锋设计师在巴黎颠覆；而这群来自安特卫普年轻人，也极大地吸收了这些新奇的时装设计观念，他们的作品随即出现一股强劲的“反奢侈”风潮，如运用超大廓型的外套、极长的袖子，将原先用作衬里的面料直接暴露在外，或是用皱巴巴的织物做正式晚装等等。他们的前卫设计概念、细致的剪裁和五彩拼贴的新颖手法，震惊了当时低迷保守的时装界。从此这六个“胆大妄为”的青年学生被英国媒体冠上了“安特卫普六君子(The Antwerp Six)”的封号，成员包括Walter van Beirendonck、Ann Demeulemeester、Marina Yee、Dirk van Saene、Dries van Noten、Dirk Bikkembergs。

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2014 Runway Show

那个年代她的设计现在仍然是我的爱。

继续写我的游记（一篇游记我得偏题好几回）

布鲁塞尔大广场（给我们家摄影师露个小脸）

广场的建筑多为中世纪所建的哥特式、文艺复兴式、路易十四式等建筑形式。我感觉我是在中世纪卖女孩的小火柴！市政厅、国王大厦、天鹅咖啡馆，被著名作家雨果称为“世界上最美丽的广场”。（点头）它是比利时最典型的哥特式建筑，整个建筑建于三个不同时期，经一再扩建增修，才达到今天这个规模。

布鲁塞尔有很多周末集市，我正好赶上一场，去溜达了一下。当时还碰见北京的俩小伙子，买了画在那边砸框，我问为啥。他说画框占地方，只想要里面的画带回去挂他酒吧墙上。他们还在这里淘一些黑胶唱片，我也想跟着一起淘了一下，虽然我家没有黑胶唱片机。。。？？？

左下这画挺有情节感

一见钟情，这个是我的。

看了这个煤油灯半天，问了卖家能不能用，卖家也是拆了研究了半天，似乎并不能用--遗憾的走了，拍个照片留个纪念。本想某日我心情不好我准备提这个煤油灯去见你的，现在没有这个煤油灯，我只能憋着不见你，暂时找不到理由。

这个刷牙杯不错。

这个凉鞋我也是看了半天，感觉是我的东西怎么遗留在这儿了还这么残破美。这花出去的钱都是为了赎回上辈子属于我的东西。

来自于非洲

布鲁塞尔的这个集市逛起来全然没有巴黎的高级，不过价格也是很nice的。我好朋友看着我完全以一种我在收破烂的眼神。而我则在那边忘乎所以淘的很起劲。

顺便看了一下名画和流落街头小画的区别哈哈哈哈，这幅还是挺可爱的嘛。

逛了一个展。所有的衣服都只给一个背面。

摄影师：娜娜桑

Wedding dress-Rayonor silk Moroccan crepe

The1930s saw the return of pinched waist dresses.Wedding dresses are a splendidexampleof this,witha train extending the slender profile which is shown off by aclever bias cut.

JEAN PAUL GAUTIER

jean-Paul Gaultier (born in 1952)pays particular attention to the back.In 1983,for example,he was the first designer to propose low-cut backs for men.He has constantly taken a creative interest in the back of the body for both men's and women's fashions.In this dress,gaultier has blended styles and combined his liking for trench coat tied at waist with a draped back,which he has completed with a three-part train that creates a previously unseen print on the ground.

Schiaparelli（这个设计师是和coco chanel同时代的竞争对手，衣服非常超现实主义）

Haute couture,1945

Evening dress-satin made from artificial fibres ,twill crepe from artificial fibres,enamelled metal buttons and embroidery with metallic blades twisted with artifical fibre threads Plalais Galliera.

Elsa Schiaparelli(1890-1973)founded her fashion house in Paris in 1927.Her first designs,jumpers with a trompe L'oeil tie,set the tone for her futrue collections.She was friends with creative people such as Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau and introduced a surrealist game into fashion.giving a new status to the back with motifs.naked backs and clothes worn back to front.In 1945,she created this wrap-around skirt whose structure is inspired by traditional Chinese dress,fastening it at the back with three enamel eyes.

BALENCIAGA

Cristobal balenciaga(1895-1972)set up his fashion house in Paris in 1937.Described by Christian Dior as <The master of us all>,he made a mark on the 20th century with the shape and uncompromising cut of his designs.whose backs were often a prominent feature.He was a real ascetic who hardly ever gave interviews and left haute coutrue in 1968 due to the growing influlence of pret-a-porter.

NATAN

Natan set up in Brussels in the early 20th century.Until the 1970s.likemostBrussels fashion houses,she bought her designs in Paris and reproduced them in her studios for her rich clients.This bias-cutasymmetrical sheath dress,to which a long train can be attached using a smallclip hidden under the end,is reminiscent of the designs of Elsa Schiaparelli,whose imposing tinted plastic zips were a signature feature.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO的

NAKED BACKS

CHANEL

This shift dress in one of the cornerstones of the exhibition.The deep plunging back,the only one of its kind,is supported by several narrow straps.The skirt is made of two panels that open onto a rounded slit at the front and from a small train at the back.

MARTINE SITBON

Dress-Jersey,Lurex and viscose

Martine Sitbon(born in 1952)is a French designer whose eponymous brand was shown in Paris from 1988 to 2004.A 1990s fashion artisan,she was successful thanks to her devore velvets,sensitive chromatic tones and radical cuts,which were inspired by fashion from the 1920s to the 1940s.In 1997,she designed a collection that included a large number of low-cuts,immortalised in New UYork magazine by photographer Jeanloup Sieff.

BALENCIAGA

Evening dress

Turned.embroidered.covered,revealed or scoop-necked:Balenciaga paid theutmost attention to the work on his backs,which were the keystone of his creations.His best-loved designs were often created on the body of his favourite modelColette,who had a distant,singulare beauty and whoseshoulders were said to be slightly curved.

GUCCI PAR TOM FORD

american Tom Ford,artistic director of Gucci between 1990 and 2004,brought a ftesh boost to the brand.Under the influence of Carine Roitfeld,editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris,he devised porno-chic,of which the G-string is the symbol.This emerges prondly from the top of trouser.delivering up the small of the back,the last bstion of privacy,to the prevailing logomania.

SYBILLA

Evening dress

Spaniard Sybilla sorondo Myelzwynska(born in 1963) presented her first collection in Madrid in1983.This discretefashion designer'screations are unusual in thattheir apparent simplicity hides a virtuoso cut expressed in muted shades.The back includes serveral cuts held together by simple nylon threads and seem todefy the lawsof physics.

ANNDEMEULEEMESTER

Evening dress（和不穿的区别就是更性感）

AnnDemeulemeester(born in 1959) was a major Belgian designer whograduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and became famous in the early 1980s as one of the <Antwerp Six>.Toether and separately,they revealed the existence of a real Belgian school to the world.active from 1985 to 2013.Demeulemeester quickly made a name forherself with the rock romanticism of her ink black creations.

LANVIN PAR ALBER ELBAZ

In 1925,the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris dedicated an entire pavilion to haute couture.Its Vice-President,Jeanne Lavin,exhibited designs that influenced her contemporaries.They included the <lesbos>dress,an absinthe green jewel dress embroidered with silver,which would inspire Alber Elbaz 77 years later.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Jean Paul Gaultier has always combined seemingly incompatible notions.Here,he combines the embroider of a dress from the Roaring Twenties with the Lurex and cuffs of a tracksuit.This skilled merging of opposites has been the mainstay of Jean Paul Gaultier's reputation since the late 1970s.

SCHIAPARELLI

The Schiaparelli fashion house closed in 1954 but reopened in 2012.Making use of the abundant surrealist heritage left by the designer,the fashion house designed this evening dress for Chinese actress Carol Lau for the amFAR Gala in Hongkong on 14 March,2015.

蕾丝是布鲁塞尔特产

穿着蕾丝衣服的Manneken Pis：）

这个彩虹人行道也太美了吧

夜晚在房东家里贼头贼脑的探索

黑猫警长

房东告诉我家里的许多有意思的摆设和装饰都是从集市淘过来的，充满怀旧气息。

klimt我的旧爱

这张照片是故事的开始，右后面一个小伙子暗恋的人在这张照片里。显然他的眼神不是一个当局者，出戏的望着某个人，似乎只看见这个人。

令人遗憾的是，姑娘嫁给了另外一个小伙，很朴素但是很甜蜜。

值得纪念的时刻人们总想拍照，如果有个姑娘说我想和你拍个照，那种心理应该是我不在乎以后是否会在一起，但至少我可以用这张照片撑过下半生。所以不知道你想和谁拍一张合照，带着不一定可得的遗憾又抱着此刻拥有你在身边的感恩。（小姑娘的戏真多）

然后故事是这样的，第一张照片中的小伙子找到了真爱，虽然是这样，他还是留着第一个姑娘和她丈夫的照片，还保持着朋友一般的联络。毕竟把所有感情敷衍的归为爱情太过笼统。可能那只是一种在孤独星球遇见指引一般的乍惊乍喜。

小娃小时候总是可爱的，长大了就各有各的讨厌和迷人之处。

房东家里有我的旧爱还有新欢，这幅画现在在伦敦塔美术馆。

蔷薇物语，这个模特最近是我的爱。

Jane Morris(néeBurden; 19 October 1839– 26 January 1914) was an embroiderer and Englishartists' modelwho embodied thePre-Raphaelite idealof beauty. She was a model andmusetoWilliam Morris(1834–1896), the Englishtextile designer,poet,novelist,translator, andsocialist activist, whom she later married, and toDante Gabriel Rossetti.