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与死亡调情

FOX国际艺术 2021-09-30 18:23:25

与

死亡

调情

圣马丁珠宝系与SWAROVSKI合作的MQ系列主题

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/ 野蛮的珠宝 中央圣马丁珠宝学院巴珠宝系的三年级学生与施华洛世奇合作设计了以亚历山大·麦昆为基础的作品，与维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆的野蛮之美展览同时进行。虽然V&A主要是一个展示世界古老历史的博物馆但它

支持年轻人才并为他们提供了一个空间以艺术的方式将他们的作品展示给那些不一定了解时尚珠宝和它们的许多背景的观众

然而，普通观众对时装展览的兴趣似乎越来越大;野蛮之美如此成功的原因之一。在展览期间，V&A、施华洛世奇和中央圣马丁珠宝学院(Central Saint Martins)的珠宝学士学生进行了合作。“亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的作品采用了关键而令人惊讶的主题;不受传统束缚，”英国文学学士珠宝设计课程负责人卡罗琳·布罗德海德说，“他的作品的影响远远超出了时尚界。”

SAVAGE JEWELLERY Though predominantly a museum that shows the old history of the world, the V&A champions young talent and offers them a space to artfully present their work to an audience that might not necessarily be aware of fashion, jewellery, and their many contexts. The general audience, however, seems to have a growing appetite for exhibitions concerning fashion; one of the reasons why Savage Beauty is such a success. Coinciding with the exhibition, the V&A, Swarovski and Central Saint Martins BA Jewellery students collaborated.“Alexander McQueen’s work drew on crucial and surprising themes; unfettered by convention,” BA Jewellery Design course leader Caroline Broadhead said, “the impact of his work extended way beyond the world of fashion.”

这个名为“野蛮之美”的项目的目的是

利用亚历山大·麦昆斯作品中的主题

同时设计一件颂扬的

施华洛世奇水晶

或宝石的作品

英航珠宝设计课程与施华洛世奇有着长期的合作关系;他们已经在项目上合作了超过12年，而且该公司也是展会的主要赞助商之一，因此合作很顺利。10名学生被挑选出来制作他们的作品。

The aim of the project entitledSavage Beautywas to use themes that appear in Alexander McQueens work, while designing a piece that celebrates Swarovski crystals or gemstones. The BA Jewellery Design course has a long-lasting relationship with Swarovski; they’ve worked together on projects for over twelve years, and the company is also one of the exhibition’s main sponsors, hence the collaboration falling well into place. Ten students were selected to produce their piece.

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“

接受麦昆这个创意巨擘创造的想法和图像需要想象力和技巧。学生们对麦昆作品的戏剧性黑暗和奢华做出了回应：

从血红色线编织的爪形手套

到一个带着固定微笑的珠宝面具

再到闪闪发光的皮革圆顶帽

以及一个令人眼花缭乱的取景器

或是将佩戴者框到一个华丽的

充满威胁的鹰爪衣领

”

——卡罗琳·布罗德海德

“It takes imagination and skill to take on ideas and images created by the creative powerhouse of McQueen. The students have responded to the theatrical, the dark and the extravagant in McQueen’s work, from clawed gloves knitted from blood red threads, ajewelledmask with a fixed smile, a sparkling leather tamo’shanter, a dazzling viewfinder to frame its wearer to an opulent collar of menacing talons.”– Caroline Broadhead

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-Photography by Phillip Koll for 1 Granary-

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JULIETTE VAN DE KERCHOVE

材料:

皮革，亚克力板，施华洛世奇水晶

自然提供了一个元素属性的索引，作为对变化的物理环境的响应，人类形态可以进化。灵感来自麦昆的上一个系列“柏拉图的亚特兰蒂斯”，这件作品是一个雕塑式的诠释，一个不断变化的环境可能在身体内部引发的仿生进化。

Materials:Leather, Acrylic Sheet, Swarovski CrystalsNature presents an index of elemental attributes that the human form can evolve as a response to a changing physical environment. Inspired by McQueen’s last collection ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, this piece is a sculptural interpretation of the biomimetic evolution that a changing environment could provoke within the body.

CHARLOTTE ASHERSON

材料:

PVC，天然泥灰岩

施华洛世奇水晶，螺母和螺丝

受麦昆2009年S/S系列“自然差异-非自然选择”的启发，这件作品探索了工业时代的黎明，以及人类如何影响环境。该设计通过将水晶交织在实用的、人造的美学中来质疑人们对美的感知。

Materials: PVC, Natural Marl-Stone, Swarovski Crystals, Nuts And ScrewsInspired by McQueen’s S/S 2009 collection ‘Natural Distinction – Unnatural Selection’ this piece explores the dawn of the industrial age and how human beings have impacted upon the environment. The design questions the perception of beauty by intertwining crystals within a utilitarian, man-made aesthetic.

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FIONAKAKEICHONG

材料:

瓷，尼龙，施华洛世奇黄玉，银，皮革

我在麦昆的“野性之美”理念中看到了用天然材料装饰身体的冲动。我开始把我收集的贝壳变成身体装饰品。借鉴了古罗马发型和部落装饰的元素，一款带有施华洛世奇宝石的假发状头饰是一种收集和装饰的庆祝。

Materials: Porcelain, Nylon, Swarovski Genuine Topaz, Silver, LeatherThe urge to decorate one’s body with natural materials is what I saw in McQueen’s idea of ‘Savage Beauty’. I set out to turn my seashell collection into a body adornment. Drawing on elements from ancient Roman hairstyles and tribal adornments, a wig-like headpiece set with Swarovski gemstones is a celebration of collecting and decorating.

AKIKOSHINZATO

材料:

施华洛世奇水晶，植物鞣皮，丙烯酸染料

我的灵感来自亚历山大·麦昆时装秀上小丑的妆容。我的想法是用珠宝的形式化妆，面具代表了隐藏身份的概念。完美应用水晶形状的小丑妆在前面逐渐消失向后面，露出裸露的皮革下面。

Materials: Swarovski Crystals, Vegetable Tanned Leather and Acrylic DyeI was inspired by the clown make-up at Alexander McQueen’s shows. My idea is wearing make-up in a form of jewellery and the mask represents a notion of hiding identity. The perfectly applied crystal-formed clown make-up at the front fades away towards the back to reveal the bare leather underneath.

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XINYUWANG

材料:

施华洛世奇水晶，铝，铜，汽车喷雾剂

我看了亚历山大·麦昆时装秀上令人难以置信的头饰。这些不仅仅是配件;他们成为吸引每个人注意力的焦点。我的作品旨在创造通过相机取景器观看的体验;施华洛世奇水晶的光辉就像一个框架，照亮了里面的主体。

Materials: Swarovski Crystals, Aluminium, Copper, Car SprayI looked at Alexander McQueen’s incredible headpieces in his shows. These are not just accessories; they become the focus points that catch everyone’s attention.My piece is designed to create the experience of looking through a camera viewfinder; the brilliance of the Swarovski crystals act as a frame and shines a light on the subject inside.

DENNISYUANMINGSONG

材料:

立体光刻树脂，亚克力，施华洛世奇水晶

受2001年“Voss”节目中超现实主义元素的启发，我的作品阐释了人类欲望“吞噬”人类灵魂的概念——看起来比实际更强大的欲望。水晶装饰的锋利的爪状触须似乎在吞噬并勒死猎物。

Materials: Stereolithography Resins, Acrylic, Swarovski CrystalsInspired by the surrealistic elements of the show‘Voss’, 2001, my piece illustrates the concept that human desires ‘eat’ human souls – desires which appear more powerful than they actually are. The crystal embellished sharp, claw-like tentacles of the neckpiece appear to consume and strangle their victim.

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KAREN LEUNG

材料:

红色细绳、施华洛世奇水晶

我对围绕着人类和动物之间关系的紧张感感兴趣，被麦昆系列中的鸟类主题所吸引。探索自由与约束的理念，我采用传统的编织工艺将水晶包裹起来，捕捉人与鸟之间复杂的互动。

Materials:Red String and Swarovski CrystalsInterested in the tensions that revolve around the relationships between humans and animals, I was drawn to the motifs of birds within McQueen’s collections. Exploring the idea of freedom and restraint, I incorporated traditional basket weaving techniques to encase the crystals and capture the complex interactions between humans and birds.

/ KOTA OKUDA

材料:

植物棕褐色皮革，有机玻璃，手针线

施华洛世奇水晶1，8ct镀金黄铜，古董织物

为了回应1995年令人震惊的《高地强奸》(Highland Rape)系列，我开始探索殖民地景观中支离破碎的身份。我的设计借鉴了高地服装和传统的装饰模式，在皮革中嵌入施华洛世奇水晶，作为文化转移的代表，标志着历史和当代的身份问题。

Materials: Vegetable Tan Leather, Perspex, Hand Stitch String, Swarovski Crystal, 18ct Gold Plated Brass, Antique FabricResponding to the shocking ‘Highland Rape’ collection in 1995, I set out to explore the fractured identities within a colonial landscape. Drawing on Highland dress and traditional modes of adornment, my design embeds Swarovski crystals within leather as a representation of the cultural transference that marks both historical and contemporary issues of identity.

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JESSICA PASS

受亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的“野蛮之美”(Savage Beauty)系列的启发，我为这款围巾设计了一个强有力的棱角结构，与脆弱的野鸡羽毛并列。框架上装饰着施华洛世奇水晶，呼应并强调羽毛的丰富色彩。

Inspired by Alexander McQueen’s ‘Savage Beauty’collection, I designed a strong angular structure for the neckpiece, which is juxtaposed with the delicate fragility of pheasant feathers. The framework is adorned with Swarovski crystals that echo and emphasise the rich colour of the feathers.

BIRGIT TOKETAUKAFRIETMAN

材料:施华洛世奇公主广场花式石(12mm箔水晶)欧洲胡桃木和黑色麂皮

我回应了亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)作品中对立的平衡，他巧妙地将精致与有力结合在一起。我的作品既保护又暴露。巨大的轮廓引人注目，但通过在激光切割图案中同样集成晶体，这幅作品显得轻盈而优雅。

Materials:Swarovski’s Princess Square Fancy Stone (12mm Foiled Crystal), European Walnut and Black SuedeIresponded to the balance of opposites in Alexander McQueen’s work, his skillfulmarrying of the delicate and the forceful.My pieceboth shields and exposes. The large silhouette commands presence, but by equally integrating crystals within the laser-cut pattern, there is a lightness and elegance to the piece.