Go eight thousand miles west and hide in the mountains and seas. ——South of Tanggula Mountain（一）

Shooting along the way

Chapter 1 "Thirty achievements and fame, dust and earth, eight thousand miles of clouds and moon"

It was the last weekend in August 2023. Three months after my 32nd birthday, the Chinese summer heat in North China had largely subsided, but the rainstorm had just hit the whole region, making the whole region feel uneasy.

In my sudden short five working day vacation schedule, I had the idea of going to Tibet in a very short period of time.

Leaving Beijing, the capital of China, and heading to the distant border, south of Tanggula Mountain and Tibet, if you travel 4000 kilometers by road, you really deserve the saying 'Thirty achievements and fame are dust and earth, eight thousand miles are clouds and moon'.

Although a thousand years ago, Beijing and Tibet both belonged to the border of China, they are not what they used to be.

Beijing is one of the largest cities in contemporary China. A thousand years ago, although it also existed as a border area, it quickly expanded and developed, gradually becoming a capital city. If it were as far back as the Tang Dynasty in China (which referred to Li Yuan and his sons, who had military backgrounds and raised troops to oppose the awarding of their official titles after assessing the situation, and established the famous empire under the name of the Sui Dynasty), Beijing at that time was called Youzhou, not a popular city as it is now, but also a border area.

I have lived here for a long time, and I am familiar with many things here, but I have not yet reached the level of complete familiarity. When I was young, I never thought of settling here in life, nor did I think of going to Tibet after the age of thirty. Going to Tibet seems like a very illusory thing, something that requires great determination to complete, and of course, it has been a dream for a long time.

The journey from Beijing to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, is a long one in terms of distance. It takes 45 hours by car and nearly 40 hours by train. Of course, in modern transportation, the time taken by plane greatly shortens the distance traveled, but it cannot replace the sense of distance in people's hearts, nor can it replace the psychological distance.

The straight-line distance from Mount Gangrenbozi in Tibet to the pyramids in Egypt is 4700 kilometers, and the straight-line distance to the easternmost point of China exceeds 4700 kilometers. Tibet, in Chinese historical records, did not appear frequently until the Tang Dynasty. For a long time before, it was a mysterious and unknown region, all of which were psychologically distant and separated.

In ancient times, which was not too far away, the Great Tang Empire of China formed a connecting road with the region known as Tubo at that time, known as the "Tang Tubo Ancient Road". This ancient road crosses Tanggula Mountain and winds westward. After several months of trekking and slow adaptation to high altitude reactions, it can reach Lhasa today.

In the early years of Zhenguan in the Tang Dynasty, a young man named Chen Yi in the registered residence started his adventure to the west by relaxing the exit ban. He was holding a monk's ultimatum. It was believed that he had encountered no small trouble in Yumen Pass, but he was still persistent. He overcame the loneliness of the vast Gobi with transcendental physical strength and strong will, crossed the vast desert, successfully adapted to the symptoms of altitude reaction, and climbed the Congling Mountains, Arrived in today's India.

Arriving in this year was the sixth year of Zhenguan, and he walked on a long journey for five years. That year, he was thirty years old, and Li Shimin, the highest controller of the Tang Empire who was three years older than him, had just celebrated his birthday in May. His daughter Princess Changle got married at the beginning of the year, which made Li Shimin mourn for a period of time. In addition, Li Shimin's department did not receive any notification from the Indian authorities. A young person of his own age arrived in India, and he was clearly unaware of this.

As the author of "Records of the Western Regions of the Great Tang Dynasty", Chen Yi did not travel through Tibet, which makes the simplicity and mystery of Tibet even more prominent.

Shooting along the way

Chapter 2: "Before the Onion Ridge disappears, the waters of Anuo are scattered, and the Zhulin is scattered with garlands and flowers

Therefore, Tibet is one of the most mysterious places in China and even the world, with towering altitude data that many people dare not venture to before fully evaluating their physical conditions. This is also a place where religion is prevalent, and compared to the vast mainland, the people here treat religion more devoutly.

For Chen Yi, who was traveling westward, also known as Xuanzang, a prominent monk of the Tang Dynasty, Tubo was not his only route. He only passed through this area from the northwest on his return journey.

But Xuanzang clearly knew and knew about this place. He described the holy lake at the foot of Mount Gangren Boqi based on rumors and possibly actual visits. "Ana Boda Duo Chi also. (Tang Yan was not troubled. The old name was Anuta Chi, Erya.) It was located 800 miles south of Xiangshan and north of Daxueshan. It was decorated with gold, silver, glass, and callose. The golden sand was everywhere, and the clear waves were shining in the mirror." He also recounted that it was the source of the four rivers, These became one of the evidence for later generations to determine that Mapanyongcuo, located in the Ali region, was the "Western Heaven Yaochi".

Tibet is not only a literal region, but also carries more religious and cultural connotations. In Buddhism, it is considered the most sacred place in the southern part of the continent, where all things have spirits. For those who have a love for mysticism, Tibet is a very unique existence. Nazi Germany once sent exploration teams twice, hoping to find a legacy of divine power related to the legendary Atlantis, And some kind of cave that changes the magnetic field and twisting time, this cave is called the "Shambara Cave".

There is even evidence to suggest that the symbols of the Nazi Empire have a certain connection with Bon religion in Tibet, and from the extremely simple history of human legend, it can be seen that because major floods have been recorded in various ethnic historical legends, the best place to avoid floods is probably the roof of the world. The ancient Zhangxiong civilization in the Ali region of Tibet dates back 18000 years. If 12000 years ago, the fourth season of the Earth's glacial period ended, seawater rose, and the natural environment underwent many changes, then there is a certain credibility of the argument based on the lineage of the civilization, which is that the migration of people and the transmission of beliefs started from Gangrenboqi and then extended to the surrounding world.

Explaining the mysteries of Tibet, one cannot do without Mount Okayama Rinpoche.

There are many speculative mystical views surrounding Okrinpoche, similar to its characteristics reaching directly to the dome. Some believe that it is a legacy of Atlantis civilization, a relay station that once communicated with extraterrestrial civilizations, and even has an extraordinary field of energy that directly connects to the center of the Earth.

But all of this has never been confirmed, and what I would rather believe is that under the vast night sky, this sacred mountain silently gazes at the human world, revealing indescribable solemnity and mystery in its calm gaze.

Tibet, where this sacred mountain is located, naturally has an indescribable mystery.

Shooting along the way

Chapter 3: "As fleeting years pass by, how does the road of travelers meander

After nearly three years of abnormal management, no one can stop you from leaving and arriving freely. This significant change inspired me to have the idea and action of going to Tibet.

In my memory, Tibet is the most distant and familiar place in the Chinese region. In the history textbook knowledge test organized by the national education department, all of these words are involved, including Princess Wencheng, the Minister in Tibet, and the McMahon Line. It is obvious that in my understanding and understanding of Tibet, politics is the first knowledge I am told, while I have little knowledge of its customs and traditions.

According to relevant data, from January to July this year, Tibet received a total of 36.3476 million domestic and foreign tourists, while neighboring Xinjiang had a total of 140 million during the same period. This means that if 17 people choose a direction in the Hexi Corridor, 14 people will go to Xinjiang, while only 3 people will choose Tibet as their travel destination.

Travel is a practice, and with the promotion of various short videos and convenient transportation nowadays, travel seems to have become more of a banquet of traffic. Perhaps few people can look back on what they gained from their last trip and what they have come to realize. I cherish every trip very much because during this time, I try to unravel the doubts in my heart and gain a practical understanding.

At this point, regarding my thoughts on travel, I have to mention He Wei. This American, originally named Peter Hessler, has a common Chinese name, but he is in a sense the initiator of my travel thinking.

Wherever he goes, he tries to master the local customs and traditions as much as possible, allowing himself to discover interesting people and things from a perspective of exploration and discovery, like a calm observer examining every inch of the land he steps on. This foreigner who came to China in the 1990s may now be somewhere in Mississippi recalling the path he once traveled, but his tireless and passionate pursuit of an ideal state is still there, I think.

His representative work "Jiangcheng" has long been sold in bookstores in China and occupies an important position, to the extent that under his pen, the small town of Fuling in southwestern China has even become a place of deep interest.

I have to admit that his non fictional documentary writing style has had a great impact on me, and it has also allowed me to understand another aspect of writing.

The train journey from Beijing to Lhasa was the longest of all my journeys, lasting 39 hours. As a Chinese, taking a train on one's own land for over thirty hours without leaving the country is enough to prove how far the destination is.

Chapter 4: "The Big Dipper is seven stars high, and Brother Shu wears a knife at night

On a day in August, around Tuesday morning, I arrived at my workplace. During the summer vacation in China, from top to bottom, most social organizations were arranging centralized and Chinese style vacations.

At the upper level, there are considerable rumors and facts that can be concluded that senior decision-makers often gather at a place called Beidaihe on the Yellow Sea coast and work in a vacation like manner. In other social organizations, the arrival of summer also means the holidays for primary and secondary school students. As parents, this time is when they lead their children to various places to gain knowledge, Even if you don't choose to travel far, you can choose to spend time together well.

I am not married and naturally do not have children, so choosing to travel during the summer is too hot for me. However, in this context, I cannot give up the opportunity to take a fair and aboveboard vacation during the summer. Therefore, facing the end of the summer season, I choose to immediately put forward my proposal and seize the last opportunity to take a vacation. After obtaining permission, it was already noon on Tuesday. According to the vacation plan, after finishing work on Friday three days later, I will have five working days of compensatory leave.

In the office, looking at the tiring paperwork, I hesitated for a morning whether to choose Tibet as my destination for this trip. After careful consideration, I managed to eliminate all unfavorable psychological factors, drank all the water in my glass, and heavily lowered it. I decided to take this vacation to Tibet.

At 15:55 on Tuesday afternoon, more than 5 hours after I applied for compensatory leave, I booked a return flight. This also means that on the morning of September 3rd, a dusty man will take a flight to Chengdu at the airport in Gongga County, 70 kilometers away from Lhasa city, and then he will return to Beijing from Chengdu.

I had to quickly finalize my itinerary to Lhasa and arrangements for Tibet within three days, as there were both returns and returns. Tuesday is the night when the Big Dipper hangs high, and I can only choose to cross the Hexi Corridor like a lone army with a knife at night, heading west to this uncharted land.

Chapter 5 "Qinghai Changyun Dark Snow Mountain, Solitary City Looking at Yumen Pass from afar

Before leaving, although everything was a bit hasty, it seemed quite orderly. I started drinking Rhodiola on Wednesday, which is believed to reduce altitude sickness. By Thursday, I had sorted out all the supplies and equipment.

Simple and easy to carry, making the most of everything is my principle of carrying items. In my small backpack, I carried a large amount of coffee, Snickers, and a sufficient amount of food for the ride. Of course, with the advice of my girlfriend, I also carried common medications in case of emergencies.

On Thursday evening, I packed all my belongings and am expected to head straight to the station after work on Friday, taking the train to Lhasa. During the interval, I also wrote with great speed and left three letters to my girlfriend, explaining to her in detail and depth the reasons for my trip to Tibet. She refused the trip due to her fear of the plateau environment.

This may not be my most dangerous trip, but it can also be called my fastest and most daring one. However, upon closer examination, there are always those long-term factors that enhance confidence. I unknowingly persist in running for a year and a half, able to run 10 kilometers in 54 minutes, and the cumulative total mileage has exceeded 600 kilometers. All of these have provided great confidence and physical foundation for my trip to Tibet.

During Friday's off duty hours, I still calmly completed the work at hand, without even showing any unusual features. I still greeted my colleagues who seemed to have deep feelings and friendships on the surface, wishing them a happy weekend. The only difference is that I put on a pair of sneakers that day and walked back and forth in this building, but no one noticed this. It's like in the prison in Shawshank, no one cares about Andy wearing new leather shoes the day before he escaped. That's all. When I silently swiped my card and left this building, the late summer sunshine from Beijing fell on my shoulders. At this moment, I was about to rush to Tibet, like a free man, leaving this "Shawshank Building".

Starting from Beijing West Station, I boarded the Z21 train from Beijing to Lhasa. In its hard sleeper carriage, I found my bunk, a middle bunk. Along with me were a group of middle-aged women from Miyun District, Beijing, who were over 60 years old and had traveled together to Tibet. Of course, there are also quite a few other passengers I have observed. A middle-aged male from Tianjin has a very outstanding voice, his voice is humorous, but when passing through Tanggula Mountain in the morning, his voice of complaining about diarrhea is not as funny, it is a deep sorrow and pain.

That day, I was eating pumpkin pastry in front of the temple, and I said this Daoxiang Village also has it. Hey, it fell to the ground with a bang, you said it's so evil. "" Don't talk about you, that day when I went to Badachu, there were many people and thieves, and I said, "This person who uses incense is regardless of the day, and after saying it, he sprained his foot. This is really something that cannot be said in the temple." During my long journey, these middle-aged women who have experienced the vicissitudes of human affairs have been discussing this topic, and it has become a topic of faith, It always makes me feel like they are sharing their great insights into each other's lives.

Fortunately, for most of the time, I was able to find a place on the small desk rack in the corridor and watch the scenery outside the window with peace of mind. The only book I brought with me on this trip, "Human Self Seeking," was written to ridicule half of the people and encourage half of them.

In the afternoon after passing through Xining, an enthusiastic steward on the train told everyone about the precautions for going to Tibet. She distributed a health registration form and told us that the left side of the train will pass through Qinghai Lake around 4 pm. She also popularized the precautions for altitude sickness and sun protection for everyone. Of course, her kindness is also purposeful. She is promoting a seemingly secret secret formula to us, claiming that only astronauts engaged in space flights to the moon were the first to use it, a drug that can prevent altitude sickness. When she said these things, she specifically reminded us not to record or record them because it is a highly confidential matter and this medicine will not be sold to foreigners. However, there were few sales and few buyers.

At around 4 pm in the afternoon, Qinghai Lake appeared. This train seemed to be traveling by the sea, with blue and blue in the distance, the sea and sky connecting, and the red roofed lakeside buildings embellishing the tranquility of the lake area. I obviously didn't do as well as the middle-aged woman's strategy. She claimed that when she stopped at Xining, she had already cleaned the windows on the platform.

At 9 o'clock in the evening, the train slowly drove into Golmud Station. I took a walk on the platform and did the 40 push ups planned for the next day, as I decided to temporarily stop this training program after arriving in Tibet. The altitude of Golmud should be below 3000, and the platform here is cold and vast. As the last large station before entering Tibet, many people choose to take photos with the platform signs, while I observe a group of soldiers walking loosely from the platform up close. The male soldiers are wearing combat boots, and the female soldiers have a dark skin color that looks powerful and powerful. In this perhaps once Tuyuhun homeland, throughout history, soldiers have come and gone here, every inch of rivers and mountains, every inch of blood, and the military stronghold of Golmud may have witnessed more.

The train is about to cross Tanggula Mountain shortly after leaving Golmud. As a section of the provincial boundary between Qinghai and Tibet, Tanggula Mountain is located south of Tibet. On the way, there is a station called Tanggula Station, which is unmanned due to its elevation above 5000 meters. It is believed that there is a paragraph written on its monument that reads, "Here, the mountains are continuous, the ice peaks are juxtaposed, the snow covers the air, the grass is thin, the clouds are cold, the frost is cold, the life is restricted, it is dangerous! Looking back at the 800 mile vast sea, there are no birds on top, no walkways below, the sand is boundless, and no people are seen. The sky is vast, and I don't know the way back

Not long after Golmud, the train began to supply oxygen, but still felt the strength of the actual plateau, and all the packaging became swollen, gradually becoming a swollen form. I lay on my middle bunk, and the train was driving in the quiet and desolate night, with a large section of the Gobi area that had not passed by. The stars in the sky were listed, and so on. Outside the window was the rarely visited restricted area of life (perhaps already the boundary of Kekexili). I lay half asleep and half awake, resting on this vast star, feeling the sinking and fear of a deserted land. My thoughts flew high, 'Don't get entangled with people, watch nature more.' Such a night may not be forgotten by me for many years. Of course, in the background music, there was also the snoring of Miss Miyun (I must call her this name, because their conversation with a girl who got off the Golmud bus, who was humble and gave me an apple, made me feel the strong rural sentiment), This sound seems to spread even further in the desolate night of Kekexi.

The morning arrived quickly. The train passes through the area under the jurisdiction of Nagqu City in Tibet. The Tibetan homes under the snowy mountains and the rising smoke, as well as the pile of cow dung piles, all of which appear both primitive and pure. I was so busy in my bunk that I picked up my camera and started shooting freeze frames outside the window. Among those who have entered Tibet, people like me who are obsessed with photography may be common, but there may not be many people who can fully interpret the world's martial arts and the principle of being fast and unbreakable. I have already taken hundreds of photos along the way while traveling on trains to Nianqing Tanggula Mountain and Lhasa.

After passing through Yangbajing, the train began to run alongside the road, and from a distance, herdsmen could be seen riding motorcycles on the roads in the grasslands. There were also elderly people who seemed to be herding yaks, hiking on the fields in the morning.

This is a secret realm in the world, as if time has never been called time here. People work at sunrise and rest at sunset at the foot of this snowy mountain, watching the trickling stream flow in front of the house. The prayer flags on the roof make a sound, reminding us that only faith is for survival and survival is for faith.

As soon as the Dangxiong area passes, the train is already very close to Lhasa. I was resting at a small table in the hallway, and a father was accompanying his son. His son was coming to Lhasa to study at university, and his father had been telling him about life and many worldly things. This earnest teaching reflects the snowy mountains outside the window. I think he will definitely avoid the life traps his father told him, and he will invite more classmates to eat and establish good relationships with the school's teachers and leaders.

Baby, don't get homesick here. If you really want to go back to Lanzhou, you can go back. It's not far either

In this sense, Lhasa is more like a lonely city in the west. This young man who has just turned eighteen can only look at his Hexi Corridor and his hometown east of Yumen Pass from afar. "Qinghai has a long dark snow mountain, and the lonely city looks at Yumen Pass from afar

The earthly train, the extraordinary snowy mountains, the hidden villages, the free morning clouds, the winding Lhasa River, Lhasa is about to arrive.

I packed up and finally set foot on this land where I had imagined many times and in what situation. In the next six days, what awaits me are several important trips to Nanjiabawa Peak, Yangzhuoyongcuo, Everest Base Camp, Namco, and so on. The first thing I need to do now is to always be aware of the arrival of altitude sickness and evaluate its impact on me.

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Chapter 6: "How to turn the ledger to the west when the birds on the high mountains are tired of flying.